Th Future Car ... Go Hybrid.

The oil prices keeps jumping. no sign to go down. What Ahmadenejad said would be true and so by Saudi's minister. The market is full of oils, the speculators play the prices. Eventhough Arab Saudi lastly agree to add more barrels per day (about 100 million more barrels) to the market, the oil price did not go down? And keep pace of going up.

Most of the cars depend on petrol and diesel. Oil prices hikes up. so do the petrol prices. It can't resist. There have been attempt by individuals and companies to counter the petrol price such as invention to reduce the fuel consumption. The effective attempt is to introduce hybrid engine. The are natural gas (ngv in malaysia)+ petrol conversion engine. Hirogen+oxygen alog with petrol mixture. Fuel cell (hydrogen cell produce elctric) along with petrol like Honda Civic hybrid or a model of Toyota.

Individual inventors have come up with various invention of producing hydrogen and oxygen extracted from water by using electrolysis technique. The electrolysis is very simple and basic science even high school student can make one. The electrolysis with the car battery and pure water it can produce hydrogen and oxygen. The hydrogen is combustible and oxygen is very good at supporting combustion. It like the perfect duo. So the mixture of hydrogen, oxygen and petrol into the engine intake should do the perfect combustion, at the meantime reduce the use of petrol and hydrogen itself burn, to make things better, the oxygen helping the combustion producing cleaner exhaust. The positiveeffect to the environment. On the electronic part there should be some twist, to give false record to the ECU so that there is no adding petrol to the engine as it detect more oxygen at the manifold (exhaust part). These information can get easily in the internet.

Small companies are producing these product of fuel comsunption (the hydrogen+oxygen) by eletrolysis process. As the petrol prices going up these fuel comsumption keep pace at rapid rate. Sooner the will be at car company level to introduce hybrid engine to customer to keep loose depend on petrol. There will be various attempt at car company level for hybrid car. And now it keep faster pace. There also be fuel comsumption car, such as smaller car with smaller CC. or sedan car with fuel consumption engine. The hybrid car could not resist to evolve.

Some car companies are spending research for hydrogen cars, with the hydrogen is compressed to the liquid state and stored in the car tank then supply to the engine car. The negative side is the price of producing such system is huge, as to set up hydrogen station. The caontainer and the car will be the time bomb as it keeps highly compressed liquid oxygen. What if accident occur? The safety concern is there, whereas water electrolysis is just hydrogen on demand. The water itself don't burn. it just produce small portion of hydrogen and oxygen on demand and mix with petrol.

Who want to pay more petrol as there are hybrid with fuel comsumption car. Think about it. And eventually car companies will warring on hybrid cars among them. May be there wil be various of hybdrid system.

i-Charge The Fuel Saver

Importance of Car Electronics and Stability of In-Car Voltage
Do you know how important is electrical voltage to your car performance and life-span? Many problems occurred in your car now are due to unstable voltage supply, and if your car is not taken care of ASAP, it will then worsen to serious problem later. Most of the car owners look for mechanics assistance when having problems with their cars from time to time. They are unable to find the right cause and remedy to the problems, and worst of all, car owners have to compromise to the problems most of the time. As we know "precaution is better then treatment", like we take good care of our body, we should take good care of our car before it is too late. Small spending in advance is definitely a wise investment, as it has very high cost/performance in returns.

Electrical systems in our cars are interconnected to each other. To get perfect performance you need a good and harmony electrical circuit environment. For example, if you have a old and less efficient ignition circuit in your car, you will have very poor fuel consumption, low throttle response, misfiring problem, jerking gear shift, all problems may occurred due to a single defect in another electrical problem. So to maintain optimum electrical performance in your car, we need to have a very stable voltage environment. Here comes a new electronic device - i-CHARGE, original patent/copyright from Japan, a multi-purpose Voltage Stabilizer with built in Battery Doctor System and Interference Reducer System. Once you use i-CHARGE, your car is in best control by this product, it will solve small problems that due to unstable voltage during driving. What is more wonderful, it is so easy to installed, with just a plug into cigar-lighter socket, will activate this device. Unlike other fuel saving product, by adding chemical and tablets into the fuel tank, increase the risk of car damages.

Feature
i-CHARGE Voltage Stabilizer has the following three systems：
• Voltage Stabilizer System
• Interference Reducer System
• Battery Doctor System

Benefits • Fuel saving • Better RPM response • Increase engine torque • Engine power up • Optimized all electronic devices in car Notices • Do not disassemble or modify this product to avoid damage or injury. • Only design for 12V vehicles. Do not use on 24V vehicles. • Do not plug in and out from the cigar-lighter socket during driving. • When install, please make sure the plug of i-CHARGE is securely in contact with the socket. • If the cigar-lighter socket is loosened due to previous usage of other charging device, please adjust the contact point inside the socket before plug in. • Fuel saving effect will differ according to car type, driving behavior, weather, road condition etc.

Advantages • Faster throttle response, engine power up. • Reduce car CPU noise signal, improve CPU reaction time, improve electronic efficiency. • Smoother gear shift on automatic car. • Improve engine power, better acceleration response, hence improve fuel saving. • Maximize ignition efficiency, easier engine start. • Prolong engine and electrical device life-span. • Easy installation, totally DIY, the first choice for ladies drivers. • Universal for all cars and motorcycles • Reduce noise with built in noise filter, improve sound system performance. • Equipped with double fuse protection, for better product life and safety. • Faster RPM response, it gives you powerful acceleration even when your car's air condition turn on to maximum load. • Cleaner exhaust emission on HC and CO gas. So more environment friendly. • Twelve (12) months Limited Product Warranty.

Why my car relay (for radiator fan) is hot?

Scour in internet found several similar problem why the relay is too hot. Even the socket and the relay melt.

Subject: Fuel Injection Relay HOT

Question
I have a 87 740 Turbo. I just replaced the Fuel Injection Relay, Ignition Amplifier, and several wires with lost or cracking insulation. The brown wire that connects Fuse #1 (Fuel Pump, Fuel Injection System) was burnt/melted at the terminal of the Fuel Injection Relay - and the Relay itself was burnt along its side. The wire holder that the relay plugs into was even melted at the brown wire termial and the terminal along side. I replaced everything, but my new relay is still getting very very HOT. Should this Fuel Injection relay become so hot. One more note, I cannot connect my fast idle switch, if I do the car's idle shoots up to 3000 rpm in Park, but will drop to 1000rpm in gear. I replaced the idle switch, still the same results. HELP!

Answer
Hello Chris, Well sounds like theres a real strong current draw to pull through that relay, I would be checking may fuel pump for abnormal heat.Remember that the fuel is generally cool.Also because excess pressure may be at the root here,the known failure of the fuel pressure reg. ,could be blocked up on the return sd. of things.Causing the fuel pump to 'pumping against itself' kinda thing.The ground pts. are 1. under the rear seat bottom,left sd. 2. at the intake manifold and there should be 1 or 2 braided wire grds.from the firewall to the last valve cover nuts.As for the idle problem, the 'idle motor' is maybe stuck in the 'wide open'position and cleaning it with carb cleaner can help.If not then replacement is in order.Thank you and good hunting!

Volkswagen Relay for a Better Current Flow

(Still in topic; relay hot)

Volkswagen cars have developed millions of loyal followers around the world because of their efficiency and affordability. The overall performance of a Volkswagen car depends primarily on the proper maintenance of its parts. And parts that can usually have the problem with burning and overheating are the parts that make use of electricity or current. An example is the relay.

In your Volkswagen car, a relay lets you switch a device which draws more current than is provided by an output of a switch or component. The relay allows you to switch devices such as headlights, parking lights, horns, engine computer, etc. with low amperage outputs. A relay is an electrical switch that opens and closes under control of another electrical circuit. Originally, the switch is operated by an electromagnet to open or close one or many sets of contacts. It was invented by Joseph Henry in 1835. It is also considered as an electrical amplifier since it is able to control an output circuit of higher power than the input circuit. Relays are also used in various kinds of ways. These are: to control high-voltage with a low voltage signal; to control a high-current circuit with a low-current signal; to conserve energy; to perform logic functions; to perform time delay functions and to isolate the controlling circuit from the controlled circuit when the two are at different potentials.

Connector failures, like the connections to a relay, are usually the cause of most automotive electrical and electronic components. The current flow through the relay heats up the relay, which in turn heats up the connector. The connector looses its grip with the relay and as the connector itself begins to overheat from its new resistance to current flow. Before you know it, you already smell something hot or burning and later on, you'll be seeing the plastic around the connector melting. Eventually, the relay itself fails.

Let's take for an example the relay of the Digital Motor Electronics (DME), an automotive engine control system. Among the symptoms of a failing DME relay is difficulty or failure in starting the engine when it has been shut down and the tendency of the engine to suddenly die while driving down the road. Another example is the fuel pump relay. Basically, a hot relay is a bad relay. It should not be hot, even though the fuel is drawing too much current. However, a relay failure in this situation can also be attributed to a cold solder joint, bad crimp joint and bad relay contacts. Among the indicators of a fuel pump relay failure are a no-start engine and usually a burnt smell.

A relay failure can either be fixable or non-fixable. So it's important to inspect them every now and then and replace them when the need arises to avoid danger and further damage.

OBSERVATION
This evening i realise that the radiator fan is quite heavy to spin compare to the other one. I think the fan itself is come to its end of it expirery date. I want to change the fan first and let see.

Car radiator cooling fan

Question: 1999 Ford Taurus V6 3.0 mileage: 65,000. When I put the air-conditioner on it works fine until the condenser heats up at which time the clutch slips. The problem is that the fan under the hood does not come on when the air is turned on. What activates this fan to come on when the air is turned on?

Answer: First, check for 12-volts to the fan motor when the air-conditioning is on. Also, check the wiring for damage and poor ground connections. The fan is controlled by an integrated controller. You may need a cooling fan motor.

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Question: 2001 Ford Foucs mileage: 87,000. I have had to replace the cooling fan relays about three times within the past year. What do you think could be causing the relays to go bad so quickly?

Answer: If the cooling fan motor is starting to fail, it will pull extra AMPS through the relay causing it to fail prematurely.

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Question: 1999 New Yorker mileage: 85,000. My cooling fan relay is bad. Can you tell me where the relay/circuit is located? I can't find a diagram or picture for the life of me. My Haynes manual shows a later model picture. There are 3 possible boxes located toward the front right under the hood of course.

Answer: It is located on the left inner finder panel in a group of relays. Counting from the left, it is the second relay.

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Question: 2002 Ford Mustang mileage: 65,000. I'm having a problem with the electric cooling fan. The fan will not come on which causes the car to run hot. The fan motor works when straight wired to the battery. It also works if I remove the wire from the electric fan switch and ground it. During troubleshooting I have replaced the electric fan switch, the a/c-cooling fan module and air temperature sensor. This is why I replaced the fan switch. Also note that the a/c compressor does not kick in, unless I jumper it at the accumulator press switch. When this is done the compressor kicks in and the electric fan kicks in, remove the jumper and compressor kicks out (like it should) and the fan runs for a few seconds (like it should) before cutting off. Also note the code scanner does not give any trouble codes. It all checks out fine. What have I missed? I have spent numerous hours troubleshooting and looking at wiring diagrams, with very small print, I'm stumped!

Answer: We would check for a faulty radiator cap.

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Question: 2001 Saturn SL2 DOHC mileage: 78,000. The electric cooling fan is not engaging. The fuse is ok, the relay works fine, and the temperature gauge is measuring the coolant temperature correctly. I assume there is a sensor somewhere that is not working but I cannot locate it.

Answer: Test to verify that the fan motor is not burned out.

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Question: 2004 Isuzu Rodeo mileage: 35,000. I am having a problem with my fan/blower. I can tell that the air is hot when using the heater and cold when using the AC, but the fan will not blow. I checked the fuse and also changed it and it still doesn't work.

Answer: Check for 12-volts at the blower motor. If 12 volts is present, replace the blower motor. If not, check for a faulty relay or fan switch.

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Question: 1999 S10 Chevrolet mileage: 63,000. How do I remove the fan/clutch from my truck? It does not have 4 bolts, instead it is held in place by one large nut that screws on to the water pump shaft. There is no way to hold the water pump shaft still to loosen the fan/clutch.

Answer: It sounds as if you have removed the fan belt. If you have, reinstall the belt and use it to hold the pulley as you loosen the fan clutch nut.

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Question: 1999 Nissan Altima mileage: 95,500. My fans never work; only when the a/c is on do they turn on and off like they’re supposed to. What could that be?

Answer: There is a temperature sensor that signals the fans to come on when the cooling system gets warm. Your coolant sensor may be faulty or disconnected.

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Question: 2003 Toyota 4 Runner 48,000 miles. I try to do a lot of the maintenance myself by referencing my most prized car repair possession- "How to keep your Toyota alive for the complete idiot.” It has saved me an armor truckload of money. Anyway, when I cold start her, the fan sounds as if it is loose and making rattling noises until I get it on the road, eventually eliminating the sound. Could this be the sign of the fan clutch needing replacing? Appreciate any advice guys.

Answer: Without actually “seeing” your vehicle and driving it, it is difficult to diagnose the problem. We are guessing that you may be right – it could be the fan clutch. With the engine off, and cold, grab a hold of the fan blade and move it back and forth to see if the is any movement in the fan clutch. If there is, replacing the fan clutch should fix your problem.

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Question: 1994 BMW 318ti. How do I get the fan clutch off? Already have the radiator off and out of the way. I need to install a new fan. Thanks for any help in this regard.

Answer: The fan clutch unscrews off the water pump, however it has reversed threads (left handed threads).

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Question: 2003 Dodge Caravan mileage: 41,000. Just recently the engine will run hot when not moving. When moving ever thing is fine. I know the fans are not coming on. Even with the A/C on the fans are not coming on so I do not think it is the temperature sensing device. I have tested the fans by hot-wiring them. They both come on fine. The fan fuse (40 amp) is fine by all appearance. I believe it to be the relay or control module. The relay I can do if I can find it! Where do they hide that thing exactly and what does it look like.

In another Q&A, you said it is by the fan. The only thing by the fan in my case is a small connection. I have not "pulled" it apart because it is hard to get apart. It is fed power from a mass of wires all connected together. By the way, on both sides of this connection is voltage ~6.4 volts when the A/C is on. (For ease of testing, I never let the radiator temp get to the cycle on temperature. I was using the A/C compressor to request for the fans to be on.) Does this sound like the relay? If so, please give exact description of location and appearance. Thanks.

Answer: What you are looking for is on the frame rail on the driver’s side front by the radiator. It is a solid-state speed control although Dodge calls it a relay.

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Question: 1996 Mercury Tracer, mile: 56,000. The cooling fan will not stop running. I already replaced the temperature sensor but it did not fix the problem. I have read that for air-conditioned cars, there is a fan controller but I do not know where to find it or what it looks like. Another problem is the blower fan; it will not blow any air. I already tested the fan, it runs in another car so it works, and I do not know what else can be wrong with it because the fuses are fine, and all the connections are well plugged.

Answer: First off, the fan control is located behind the glove box. It is approximately 3 inches by 4 inches and black in color. Secondly, the blower fan problem is probably a faulty fan switch or the resister block for the blower motor.

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Question: 2004 Mercedes CL600 mileage: 30,000. I am having problem with my heater. I can tell that the air is hot but the fan is not blowing it out. I checked the fuse and also changed it and it still doesn't work. I am trying to find the fan itself and am having trouble finding it. Can you help me with this?

Answer: It is under the dash, in the heater ductwork and repair as needed.

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Question: 2002 Toyota Avalon mileage: 40,000. Without warning, the air conditioner & fans quit working. This car has an outside air temp display & it suddenly does not show a temperature reading. I checked every fuse I could fine with a meter. All ok. The car starts & runs fine & all other electrical works ok, i.e., lights, rear defroster, windows, door locks, seats. It is equipped with an auto mode for the air with a temperature adjustment that will control the blower speeds. This is not working, or if you try to punch manual blower speeds, (each button will light up) but will not turn fan on, or if you push the ac button, will not work or light up. No engine service light either? Thanks!

Answer: Check wiring for damage or loose connections. Check ground connections.

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Question: 2001 Oldsmobile Alero mileage: 66,000. The radiator fan is not working properly; the fan motor goes on and off way too much. I have noticed when the motor goes on and off a clicking noise is coming from a relay located on the firewall. It almost acts like there is a short in the wiring. I have tried a new relay but this did not fix the problem. Do you have any suggestions? I am hoping this is something minor and a simple fix. Thanks for any help you may have for me.

Answer: With engine cold, remove radiator cap and check coolant level. If okay, scan computer to check coolant sensor.

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Question: 1999 Ford Windstar, mileage: 110,000. The heater/air-conditioning fan does not appear to have enough volume blowing out the vents. I put on new fan and washed out the air conditioning coil, but it didn't appear to help. I also straight wired the fan directly from the battery to see if it was an electrical problem in the speed control. The volume didn't change. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Answer: The “doors” in the heater ducts may not be opening. Check vacuum hoses for leaks or loose connections in the engine compartment.

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Question: 1999 Dodge Caravan mileage: 87,000. The fans are not working. Our Dodge overheated as a result. Can you tell us -- where to locate the relay sensor to this van? Or what do you think the reason could be that the fans are not working? Our engine light is also staying on also. Any ideas on how to get our fans working? Thanks

Answer: The fan control module/relay is probably faulty. It is located by the radiator fan, the part is a dealer item. The “check engine” light will “light” when there is a malfunction in the engine management system. The fault code is then stored in the computer. The computer must be scanned to retrieve these stored faults to pinpoint the malfunctioning component. Because the check engine light indicates something is wrong, a trip to you neighborhood automobile service center sooner rather than later is recommended.

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Question: 2002 Mitsubishi Montero mileage: 46,000. My car is running hotter but so far, it has not overheated but has been very close to being in the red according to my temperature gauge. This is a fairly recent change. My car stays cool when it is out on the highway but when I'm in town or stuck in traffic it gets a lot hotter. I have also observed that my radiator fan no longer works. Can I assume that if my radiator fan worked, my car would not be running hotter and how easy is it to fix. I believe I have two fuses for the radiator fan in a fuse box under the hood and I think there is a temperature-sending switch that might be easy to replace on my own. Please let me know your thoughts on this issue.

Answer: You have nailed you problem exactly. Nice work!

fuel economy problem

Fuel economy and likely faulty part or sources.

Question: 2003 Ford Pickup F-150 mileage: 70,000. My truck has two gas tanks. Front tank is slightly larger than the back. Noticed a drop in fuel economy lately (past few months). Started checking, front tank gets the usual 17-mpg. Back tank varies from 11 to 13. No fuel leaks (at least not when it is sitting in garage). No fuel smell. Runs good. Any suggestions? I checked your previously answered questions but didn't see anything quite the same. Thank you for your time!

Answer: Your problem with the fuel monitoring system, check the oxygen sensors and the mass air flow sensor.

Question: 2002 Ford Thunderbird mileage: 71,000. Hi guys. I have a gas consumption problem with this car that I have had since I purchased it a year ago with 55,000 miles on it. I only get 200 miles out of a tank of gas. It has an 18-gallon tank. This is involving mostly expressway driving, very little city. I average around 14 mpg, which is abysmal. Taken it to several Ford dealerships, which test and say according to their diagnostic computer, I should be getting 26.7 mpg. The car runs perfectly, except for an occasional shudder coming from the transmission. There are no gas leaks at all. The dealerships don't know what's wrong with the car, so I am hoping you can steer me in the right direction.

Answer: Try replacing the Mass Air Flow Sensor and the fuel filter.

Question: 1999 Lincoln Mk VIII mileage: 128,000. I have just had the transmission rebuilt in this car and now I have developed two problems that did not exist prior to the rebuild. The first is that I get an intermittent "check engine" light. This comes on usually after 3 minutes and goes off and on with no pattern as to engine/speed. The second is that my gas mileage has gone from 22-24 mpg avg. to 16.5 or less. The error codes and the computer have been reset but the light keeps coming on and the mileage is horrible. The shop replaced one of my oxygen sensors at their expense believing they had somehow damaged it during the rebuild. My transmission shifts as if new and there seems to be no problem with the rebuild. The engine is running smoothly and has plenty of power and all normal startup computer checks read OK. Any thoughts on where to look/things to try would be helpful.

Answer: We think you have a Mass Air Flow Sensor that is out of range and needs to be replaced.

Question: 1999 Chevrolet 1500, miles: 145,000 I have replaced plugs, alternator, belts, changed oil, cleaned injection, and replaced fuel sensor, and my car is consuming too much gas. It uses almost 3/4 of a tank of gas to drive 50 miles. How can I repair my car so it doesn't use so much gas?

Answer: Check fuel pump and Mass Air Flow Sensor.